Sunday, September 7, 2008

First Impressions


Hello Dear Friends,
Well it has only been six days since I left, but already home seems worlds away and ages ago. After two days of orientation in New York and almost twenty accumulative hours of flight I am on day 2 in Accra, Ghana. I will skip over my orientation in New York, (it wasn't very eventful) and skip straight ahead to my first impressions of Ghana.
So where to start. Ghana is amazing. Ghana is startling. Ghana is different than anything I've ever known. I am trying to keep these brief and readable, so for today I will share just one of my experiences. On day one we traveled from the hostel we are staying in to the beach, a distance of 10-15 miles, a trip that took at least an hour each way. The beach itself was, well a beach, and there is nothing to explain there. But the ride to and from was a first look at life in a Ghanaian city, and it was incredible. First off, the driving is insane. There are people, goats, chickens, dogs, etc. walking constantly along and across the streets, and yet the fearless drivers still drive at gut wrenching speeds. As far as I can tell the only signal people really use much is their horn, and it is almost constantly beeping. The next part of this ride that was new were the street vendors. There were hundreds of them, and at every stop they would rush up to our open windows, trying to sell us rich "abrunis" items wranging from candy to sunglasses to yams to screwdrivers. I wonder how much of a product these diligent salesman manage to make, because of the hundreds of them we passed, I saw five or less sales. The other part of this ride that was also incredible was the poverty. I had of course known it would be everywhere, but seeing it first hand was another story. It is absolutely numbing to see it all, be it naked little children standing atop garbage piles, bone skinny old men or women sitting inside there about to collapse little shacks. And seeing all of this I also have to take into mind that Ghana is one of the better off African nations, which is also quite numbing. That said, there are many positive things happening here. As our orientation leader said to me earlier, there are so many good things happening in Ghana and in Africa, but Americans and other foreigners seemed obsessed with only focusing on the negative things. The poverty rate here is declining, there water and other services are improving, good things are definitely happening. And aside from that many people live happy content lives, but because there lives are simple and do not involve much technology it is assumed that they are impoverished.
Accra is very dirty and as I said poverty is present everywhere, but despite that I am already in love with the culture. Part of this I think is because it is so completely different from the U.S. For instance, as far as I can tell 90% of shopping is done out on the street, and price is always negotiable. This provides for a very lively and also loud atmosphere everywhere in the city. Also the smells are all competely new, both good and bad. All the sewers here are open trenches along the roads, so that at first was a bit nausiating. But then there are the smells of street food, and that is very pleasant. I am not planning on eating much of that street food, but so far the food that has been prepared for us has been delicious. In general a meal consists of a staple food, (plantanes, yams, beans) and some sort of very spicy sauce that usually contains meet. Although the meals are all similar, they have all been some of the most delicious meals of my life. And to end this, the last thing I will add is that the people I have met here so far are amazing. Everyone is very friendly and of course very interested to hear about the U.S. I met a man yesterday who greeted me by asking who I was voting for, and when I told him that I supported Obama he broke into an ear to ear grin and gave my an enthusastic handshake. There are very few white people here, so in part I think we are a bit of a novelty and people wish to talk to us because of that, but they also do seem genuinly interested in knowing a bit about us and about our country.
Ok well that is all I am going to write for today, I hope that I did not write to much and that it is readable. In my next post I will try to add some pictures, I think they will be quite fun to see. Also, my posts are also viewable at www.wesfinger.blogspot.com.
I hope all is well back in the States, and I hope all of you are doing well.
Best Wishes,
Wesley

5 comments:

Beausox said...

Great post Wes. Your energy and enthusiasm are coming through in your words loud and clear. Keep it up. You're on our thoughts constantly. Enoy, enjoy, enjoy!

XOX ~ Uncle Mark

Beausox said...

Hey Wes, and while I'm at it, I found a very simple guide to help you with one of the languages that you'll be exposed to in Sunyani -- Twi. As your uncle, I want to do anything I can to help. So simply memorize the passage below and you should have no problem. I'm sure your new friends will appreciate this cheat sheet.

The bottom line is -- simply work on your palatalization, vowel harmony and tone terracing and you should be all set.

XOX ~ Uncle Mark


PHONOLOGY

Like all Akan dialects, Twi phonology involves extensive palatalization, vowel harmony, and tone terracing.

CONSONANTS

Before front vowels, all Twi consonants are palatalized, and the plosives are to some extent affricated. The allophones of n are quite complex. Palatalized allophones which involve more than minor phonetic palatalization are specified, in the context of the vowel i.

In Ashanti, ɡu followed by a vowel is pronounced ɡʷ, but in Akuapem it remains ɡu. The phones transcribed for convenience tɕʷ, dʑʷ, çʷi, ɲʷ would be more narrowly transcribed tɕɥ, dʑɥ, çɥ, ɲɥ, for they are simultaneously labialized and palatalized. The sequence nh is pronounced ŋŋ̊.

Note that orthographic is ambiguous; in textbooks, ɡ may be distinguished from dw with a diacritic: d̩w. Likewise, velar ŋw may be transcribed n̩w. Orthographic is palatalized ɲʷĩ.

VOWELS

The Akan languages have fifteen vowels: five "tense" vowels (Advanced tongue root, or +ATR), five "lax" vowels (Retracted tongue root, or −ATR), which are adequately but not completely represented by the seven-vowel orthography, and five nasal vowels. The tense/lax distinction in orthographic a is only found in Fante; in Twi they are both approximately ɑ. The two vowels written e (e̘ and i) and o (o̘ and u) are often not distinguished in pronunciation.

Twi vowels engage in a form of vowel harmony with the root of the tongue. −ATR vowels followed by the +ATR non-mid vowels i̘ a̘ u̘ become +ATR. This is generally reflected in the orthography: That is, orthographic e ɛ a ɔ o become i e a o u. However, it is no longer reflected in the case of subject and possessive pronouns, giving them a consistent spelling. This rule takes precedence over the next one.

After the −ATR non-high vowels e a o, +ATR mid vowels e̘ o̘ become −ATR high vowels i u. This is not reflected in the orthography, for both sets of vowels are spelled e o, and in many dialects this rule does not apply, for these vowels have merged.

TONES

Twi has three phonemic tones, high (H), mid (M), and low (L). Initial syllable may only be high or low.

TONE TERRACING

The phonetic pitch of the three tones depends on their environment, often being lowered after other tones, producing a steady decline known as tone terracing. H tones have the same pitch as a preceding H or M tone within the same tonic phrase, whereas M tones have a lower pitch. That is, the sequences HH and MH have a level pitch, whereas the sequences HM and MM have a falling pitch. H is lowered (downstepped) after a L.

L is the default tone, which emerges in situations such as reduplicated prefixes. It is always at bottom of the speaker's pitch range, except in the sequence HLH, in which case it is raised in pitch but the final H is still lowered. Thus HMH and HLH are pronounced with distinct but very similar pitches.

After the first "prominent" syllable of a clause, usually the first high tone, there is a downstep. This syllable is usually stressed.

Anonymous said...

wes! i don't know what to say. your post was amazing and i am so proud of you for being so open to everything you are seeing and actually really seeing it on a deeper level. I can't wait to come and see you with papa, I'm going to try and make sure that happens. I am already excited for your next blog entry. Reading all this is making me want to travel so much and not just be stuck in tacoma although that is going extremely well, I'm just really wanting to travel again. I miss you a ridiculous amount.
love
emily

Unknown said...

Hello Wes! Aimee Frazier here, giving you a big pat on the back from afar, one I've been intending to give you since I first learned of your planned experience in Ghana. I stand in awe and yes, pride, in you, for making the choice to dive into difficult adventure - one of stark contrasts and sense-shocking experience, at a substantial distance from home and all that you've known.

It is the sort of experience I would want for my children, when they're older, that I want for myself - indeed the sort of rite-of-passage and cross-cultural awakening I want for ALL Americans. I think a long-term stay in a third world nation should be mandatory prior to adulthood, so our citizens can look beyond the insulated and privledged lives many of us enjoy, and begin to understand the rest of the world. The fact that you, at 17 (18?) are choosing it is laudable.

We Fraziers look forward to living this Ghana year vicariously through your emails and photos, keeping you in our thoughts for a safe and deeply gratifying year.

We support you in spirit, and also through a check I gave to your mom last week, addressed to you. I've been intending to get it to you all summer...

Be well Wes!

Aimee (and Peter, Evan, and Hadley)

Unknown said...

i think u must have been in a v poor area in Accra becuase there are A LOT of white ppl! many french, italian restaurants etc. many irish pubs.